How to Train Your Dog to Stop Chasing After Cars

How to train your dog to stop chasing after cars is a necessary step to be taken by you because car chasing is a problem in most communities, and this bad habit should be broken before the dog comes to harm or causes an accident. Moving cars on the road are not the only danger either; many pets have been laid low in their own driveways while the family car was being backed out. Therefore, the dog should be taught to give wide berth to any moving vehicle.

You can begin training the dog in the home driveway if it is long enough or on the street at a time when there is little or no traffic. You tell a member of the family to take the dog into the yard or on the sidewalk, or on a fairly long leash. Now, you get into your car and drive it slowly down the road, have someone sit beside you in the car who will shoot a water pistol into the dog’s face as he approaches the car, and you order sharply and immediately “No!” This action has a frightening effect upon most dogs and will discourage them. It is best to use your own car because since the dog is familiar with it, he will quickly run up to it expecting a ride. With someone controlling the dog with the leash, he gets near enough to be “shot” but not near enough to risk injury. Some times, this is all that is needed to train him to stay away from moving vehicles.

But if on the other hand the dog is a confirmed car chaser, stronger measures need to be taken. Here, you have somebody assists you in driving the car up and down a quiet street. He will, of course, be aware of what you are doing so as to be on guard to prevent the dog from sustaining injury. Snap on a long leash or rope and walk the dog along the side of the road, letting the leash out to full length as he lunges. As he nears the wheels, jerk the dog off his feet so sharply that he tumbles over and as you do so, command “No!”

You may have to repeat this many times. And even though this may seem a rather severe punishment, a few dogs need it for their own safety.

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How to Train Your Dog to Sit

Training your dog to sit and training to heel are two lessons that go together. This is so because sitting and heeling are often used when your dog is walking on a leash. Heeling simply means your dog is walking correctly under leash control. The sit is another method of greeting. So when the dog rushes to meet you or someone else, you command "Sit!" whereupon he sits down instead of pawing or jumping or actually acting generally objectionable.

Now, you are walking with your dog trotting along at your left side while the leash is held in your right hand and your left hand is being reserved for something else. Coil up the leash into a fairly short length and as you stop and command "Sit!" lift gently on the leash to hold the dog's head up, while you press his haunches into a sitting position with your left hand. The pressing must be in a gentle but slow manner, and do not remove your hand too quickly. Your aim is to make the dog sit and not to lie down, so to achieve this, you may have to continue pulling the leash upward. And as you command him to sit, make sure you keep your feet still because if you remove your feet, the puppy also will move.

When you start this at first, the dog may be surprised at the pressure and may probably want to break away. If he displays any act of resistance, order "Heel!" immediately and gaily and start walking to calm him down. Then try the sit exercise again and keep at it consistently and in about ten days or so, your dog will be performing consistently.

If when you command "Sit!" your dog lies down instead, chances are that you did not hold the leash correctly. The right result will be achieved when your hold on the leash produces the right pressure. So you will need to pull up the leash in a slow but firm manner as you issue the order "Sit!" When your grip on the leash is not strong enough, and the dog lies down instead of sitting, do not to correct by jerking. The mistake was yours not the dog's. So reach down and with your right hand between the forelegs, raise him to the sitting position, then pet him to show approval.

If your dog gets up the instant you take your hand away, that, too, is your fault. What you need do is to keep your hand pressed to the rump long enough for him to understand what you want, even if it takes several seconds. Gradually, less pressure and time will be needed and finally none at all; likewise the up-pull on the leash can soon be skipped. Should the dog sit diagonally instead of squarely, nudge his quarters to the right or left so that he heads directly forward.

Now that you have learnt how to train your dog to sit, would it not be better to learn more training tips that will help make your dog the perfect pet you can ever have? If your answer is 'yes', then check out these Dog Training Tips, they work like gangbusters.

How to Properly Take Care of Your Dog's Teeth Problems

 The examination and care of the dog’s teeth is best during early adulthood. Daily grooming of the dog’s teeth may be bothersome, but it will save you time and effort in the long run and given proper attention, the dog’s teeth can be kept in good condition.

The average adult dog has 42 teeth; the upper jaw contains 6 incisors, 2 canines, 8 premolars, and 4 molars; the lower jaw has 6 incisors, 2 canines, 8 premolars, and 6 molars. There is some breed and individual variation in the number of permanent teeth; the average Pekingese, Boxer, a Bulldog (i.e. breeds with a short skull) has slightly fewer teeth. The dog owner may avoid purchasing a dog with an undershot or overshot jaw and once that is done, the main concern should be the maintenance of healthy teeth and gums.

In maintaining a healthy teeth and gums, proper examination must be done to make sure that the permanent ones are well-positioned, straight, not crowded too closely together, free from disease, and not worn by stone-carrying and gnawing. However, the dog’s teeth cannot repair themselves; once the enamel is worn off, they remain damaged and may need treatment or extraction.

Tartar or dental plaque poses the greatest threat to the health of the dog’s teeth and gums. Guard against tartar - that yellowish, hard deposit on one or more teeth. Bacteria present in the dog’s mouth may act on soft, sweet food. Gradually, a soft deposit, at first composed of food particles and dead bacteria, becomes impregnated with calcium and other mineral salts contained in the saliva, and eventually attains a considerable hardness. More so, the tartar attains a considerable bulk in neglected cases, forming hard masses over several teeth which are completely covered and masked. The least of its harm is its unslightly color, but the real danger is that it menaces the life of the tooth to which it clinges.

Tartar is most serious as it pushes into the gum, and where the tartar reaches to the gum and encroaches on them, inflammation is caused (gingivitis). This is followed by an increasing degree of infection, and a foul odor from the mouth. If still not relieved by professional treatment, the condition progresses to one of periodontal disease, with shrinkage of gums and later of the underlying bone. As the gums recede from the teeth, fresh sites are formed for food particles to lodge for bacteria, and for more tartar. Loosening of the teeth occurs as the tartar breaks into the membrane, which is the teeth’s main brace, and the general health of the dog suffers. This condition may not be painful. On the other hand, if food particles work down into the gum cavities and decompose to cause abscesses, there will be considerable suffering.

Loose teeth cause pain, reluctance to masticate and sometimes, loss of weight. Do not expect the dog to announce a toothache by crying. He suffers in silence with signs that include pawing at the mouth, rubbing his jaw and affected side along the floor, and whimpering. In addition, dogs with tooth trouble may dribble. He eats gingerly, mothering his food with his lips rather than with his teeth. All of these may indicate a decayed, broken or otherwise sensitive tooth, or possibly a piece of bone wedged between two teeth

One may ask if anything can be done to prevent tartar formation and tooth decay, such as mouth wash or brushing the teeth. You may decide to add tooth-cleaning to grooming chores, and if the dog does not protest too vigorously, thee is no point in going to the expense of a canine dentifrice – use a little common salt in water.

Bones and hard substances are, in a manner of speaking, the dog’s tooth brush. Not that they actually clean the teeth; they perform an even better service than that. They stimulate the blood supply as they rub over the gums. Therefore, the gnawing of bones and the chewing of coarse, hard food helps keep the entire mouth healthy. That is why as the puppy grows, we gradually discontinue very moist foods and instead, feed drier, more crumbly mixtures. And then, when the second teeth are in, we give hard-baked biscuits occasionally.

All through the dog’s life, you may keep his teeth clean by wiping them regularly with a damp cloth dipped in salt or baking soda. A gentle rotating motion will simulate the gums as well as actually clean the teeth. The dog, accustomed to this attention from puppyhood, does not object. Rather, he enjoys being fussed over.

For complete information and tips on how to properly handle your dog's health problems, Check This Out

How to Train Your Dog to Heel

Training your dog to heel means training him to walk correctly under leash control. It is advisable you begin this training at a fairly early age, more so because leash control is required by law in some areas in the country. Also, the puppy will need more exercise than he can get in his play pen, and he will have to get used to the sights and sounds of the streets.

When you begin to leash walk your dog, you walk with his right shoulder about on a line with your left knee. When the dog has learned this lesson, the leash will be held in the left hand, the right being free for other duties. However throughout the training period, the leash will be shortened by coiling and is held in the right hand. The left hand grasps that part of the leash closer to the dog’s collar. Just how near the collar the hand can be placed will depend upon the size of the dog.

Keep the dog on your left side. Walk at a fairly brisk pace. Look for a quiet path or sidewalk so that passersby will not attract the dog’s attention. The reason for this is to make him walk easily and willingly. The dog may charge ahead like a little bull or baulk and pull back. If he pulls ahead, tug sharply on the leash as you command “Heel!” to keep him in line. Here, the stiffly-held left arm will help especially if he tries to jump up against you or pull to the side. Every time he goes off the straight and narrow, be ready to order him to “Heel!” Keep saying “Heel!” from time to time.

Take note of the fact that there is a difference between command and correction. All commands are issued in a clear, calm tone. The sharp word and the jerk upon the leash are corrections to be issued, for instance, when the dog stops to sniff the ground. And when he understands and obeys, be liberal with your praise. Several lessons daily, of about ten minutes each, will be about right. The puppy gets tired easily and then becomes confused, so little and often is the rule.

For more tips on general dog training, Check out these Dog Training Special

How To Train Your Dog To Stop Jumping Up On People

Training your dog to stop jumping up on people helps in avoiding some unpleasant situations; because when a dog jumps up on people on the street or in the home, it could be annoying, embarrassing and frightening to strangers.

The habit is a bad one and can be easily broken if caught at the start. We may allow our dog to jump on us when we are in old work clothes but resent it when we are all dressed up to go out. This is unfair because the dog can’t tell the difference between the two.

As the animal leaps toward you in greeting, bring your knee up, or if it is a visitor being jumped on, tell him to do the same. The bent knee catches the jumper in the chest. If this does not work, try reaching out with one foot and stepping on his hind toes and he will soon understand that his greeting must be given on all fours.

However, do not discourage the greeting entirely, else you snub the dog for his expression of joy. As you correct him for an unnecessarily boisterous greeting, you substitute another form. The moment he is on all fours, you pet him or shake hands with him, if he has learned that enjoyable little trick.

Dogs could be so annoying and mischievous at times. But given the proper training, like the one in this Dog Training Special, you can be sure to have an obedient and well-behaved dog.

Dog Care - The Best Care For Your Dog's Eyes

The dog’s eyes are his most attractive feature. They are the “tie that binds” him to mankind. The expression of the normal dog is bright, intelligent, knowing. A dog’s healthy eyes are clear, clean, lustrous; naturally and adequately moistened by tears. The moment the eyes appear at all different, there is the possibility that something is wrong, or an infection present.

A discharge from the eyes indicates an inflammation of the conjunctiva, the membrane lining the eyelids and, in modified form, covering the visible part of the eye.

Conjunctivitis

From personal experience, we all know that conjunctivitis leads to ‘watering’ of the eyes. Also, it often causes the eyelids or their edges to be red and swollen. Sometimes, it leads to a sticky and thicker discharge, and the eyes become tender and swollen, and you find the dog reluctant to keep the eyes open in a bright light.

A lot of factors cause conjunctivitis, some of which are local infections with viruses, mycoplasmas, bacteria, fungi; exposure to draughts (like when the dog looks out of the window of a moving car); exposure to dust, lime or smoke. In some dogs, a hyper-sensitivity to inhaled pollen or to other particles of foreign protein gives rise to atopic disease (hay fever) with conjunctivitis. The latter can also be a symptom of some generalized illness such as canine distemper, and of canine herpes virus infection.

Severe inflammation and ‘watering’ of one eye may also occur if there is a blocked tear duct, or a grass seed or piece of grit present. As a result of pain and irritation, the dog may paw the face or rub it along the ground.

You can flush out this piece of grit by using a piece of cotton wool soaked in warm saline and held close to the eye so that a few drops fall on to its surface. You can also use an eye-dropper intended for human use, but be careful so as not to allow the end of the dropper come into violent contact with the eye if the dog jerks his head. If the grit has been moved by the liquid and becomes visible, it can often been removed by a piece of moistened cotton wool.

More difficult to remove is a grass seed or awn. Usually, a local anesthetic is indicated and then removal by a veterinary surgeon. But as a first-aid measure, you can apply a drop of castor or olive oil to reduce friction and discomfort.

Keratitis

This is an inflammation of the cornea (which could be referred to as window of the eye, which admits light through the pupil of the retina). Keratitis often follows conjunctivitis, especially if there is a severe infection present. Keratitis may also occur as a result of injury to the dog’s eyes caused by a whip lash or a cat’s claw; or to a thorn, a small piece of glass, or some irritant chemical. It may also be sequel to canine viral hepatitis.

Symptoms of keratitis include the profuse watering seen with conjunctivitis and a tendency to keep the eye closed, but then there follows an opacity which at first may be only pin-head in size. This pin-head size opacity may be a clue to the presence of a thorn embedded in the eye. It must be removed by a veterinary surgeon under anesthesia.

Pannus

This is a complication of keratitis, and the term implies the appearance of very small blood vessel which grows out from the margins of the cornea, stopping at the edges of an ulcer - if one is present.

Ulceration

It is another sequel to keratitis and is always potentially dangerous, since penetration may occur, leading sometimes to a hernia of the iris, sometimes to infection of the anterior chamber and permanent blindness.

Trichiasis and Entropion

These refer to the turning in of the eyelashes and eyelids respectively, and they are sometimes the result of a chronic inflammation, but they are far more often inherited defects which appear during puppyhood. The eyelashes irritate the cornea and, if not treated, keratitis with opacity will follow. A minor surgical operation is needed to correct the defect and prevents further trouble.

Ectropion

This means the turning outward of the eyelids – a condition virtually normal in Bloodhounds and St. Bernards, but which usually needs correcting in order breeds by means of a minor operation.

Blue Eye

This is another quite usual condition of the dog’s eye, and may set in with distemper, a lack of riboflavin, continual weeping or injury. The cornea changes from its original color to an opaque blue. This causes the dog to be temporarily blind in the affected eye, and unable to see. After several days, the blue gradually fades from the edges inward until only a tiny spot remains. Several months may pass before this scar disappears; possibly it will never disappear. Modern ointments are excellent in preventing infection of the cornea, but it is advisable to see your veterinary surgeon before the sight is permanently damaged.

Cataract

Cataract is a cloudy appearance of the lens and it may also form in the elderly or diabetic dog, impairing vision. Cataracts are often bilateral. An inherited predisposition to cataract is said to exist within some breed. There is no effective treatment for cataract other than surgical removal of the lens.

Other conditions of the dog’s eyes may include:

Dislocation of the Lens

This is seen mainly in wire-haired Fox Terriers, Sealyhams, or terriers with similar ancestry, and this condition is often hereditary.

The eyeball becomes swollen and bulgy; but first the pupil is larger than normal, and the white of the eye shows some redness. If observed carefully, the lens may be seen to wobble, if it is still attached to some of its supporting fibers and not yet completely dislocated. A veterinary surgeon who specializes in ophthalmic work can carry out an operation for the removal of the dislocated lens.

Glaucoma

This is the swelling of the eyeball due to intra-ocular pressure. It may follow the lens dislocation mentioned above, and also atrophy of the retina.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (P.R.A.)

The P.R.A. is an inherited condition which develops in certain breeds, in which the dog suffers from ‘night blindness’, being unable to see properly in conditions of poor light. The pupil dilates widely, even in daylight, and the dog appears to stare. The useful advice is not to breed from a dog or bitch with P.R.A.

Detachment of the Retina

This condition also has a hereditary basis. It is one feature of the so-called ‘collie eye anomaly’. Bleeding within the eyeball and/or detachment of the retina may occur. If the latter is extensive, the dog is likely to be partially or totally blind.

Filarial Worms

This may infest the interior of the eye, and they can rarely be seen moving in the anterior chamber. There have been cases of filarial worms been removed surgically.

Blindness

Blindness in dogs could be either a symptom or a sequel to other conditions. A tumor or brain disease of some kind may cause blindness; while some poisons, such as metaldehyde, carbon monoxide, and quinine (to which the dog is very susceptible) cause temporary blindness. In old age, vision is apt to become impaired, and a few old dogs do go blind.

There are many abnormal eye conditions, some due to hereditary factor; some diet (like lack of Vitamin A); some to infections such as distemper (involving the retina and optic nerve), toxoplasmosis, tuberculosis, and various fungal infections.

It will be appreciated therefore, that eye conditions such as the ones mentioned above and more, should receive professional attention without delay. Such professional tips will help in the proper care of your dog’s eyes

Dog Care – How to Properly Take Care of Your Dog’s Ear Problems

The dog’s sense of hearing is better than ours; he actually hears twice as well as man. Normally, the dog during play may injure his ears, and also, at a point in time, the ears may get infected.

OTITIS

This is an inflammation of the ear, and is very common in the dog and leads to scratching and shaking of the head. Sometimes a small blood vessel becomes damaged during the course of the dog scratching and shaking his head, and blood clot collects beneath the skin of the ear-flap (pinna), forming a large swelling – a hematoma. This is not as painful as an abscess but may cause some discomfort to the dog, and worries the owner because it is unsightly. If left untreated, it causes crinkling of the ear.
Otitis is frequently caused by ear-mange mites. If a small wad of cotton-wool be inserted into the ear and wiped around, it will, in a case of ear-mange, be found to bring with it a waxy-powdery deposit, brown or blackish. If this is examined under a powerful magnifying glass, mites may be seen moving.
Again, you can use a little of one of the insecticide shampoos to kill the mites. If there is much wax present, a little warm water containing a pinch of washing soda to an eggcup full may be used as a preliminary cleaning agent.
Be sure to avoid poking around with an orange-stick or any other sharp object, and avoid also, any ‘canker powders’ bought over a shop counter, as some tend to clog the ears without doing any good.

DEAFNESS

Diseased ear conditions, if not treated, may cause deafness. Trouble should be suspected if the dog shakes his head or carries it sidewise, or if he rubs an ear against the floor or attempts to massage it with his paw.
Deafness can be a congenital defect associated with a white coat (e.g. in the white Bull Terrier), and this should be borne in mind when buying a puppy. Another cause of deafness is injury to the ear, and this underlines the danger of poking about in the ear. Other causes of deafness include: nerve damage, blockage of the Eustachian tubes (which lead from the throat to the middle ear), and a brain injury. Also, carbon monoxide poisoning may cause deafness, but this is in a few cases.
The Internal Ear
Inflammation and infection of the internal ear gives rise to loss of balance and to circling movements. It requires veterinary treatment, or infection may spread to the brain.
Wax and Foreign Bodies
Other condition of infection in the dog’s ear could be an excessive secretion of wax, and this gives rise to an offensive odor. Spaniels are very prone to this sort of ear trouble, and the large flap hanging down is probably a disadvantage. But as a first-aid measure, you can fix the ear- flaps inside-out above the head by means of adhesive plaster. This allows for the circulation of air, and the mere ventilation by itself is sometimes sufficient to clear up this objectionable disorder. In long-standing cases of purulent otitis, a surgical operation called aural resection may be the only satisfactory method of treatment.
A foreign body such as a grass seed may become lodged in the ear and worry the dog.
In order to help ease irritation from a foreign body or soften wax, a little olive oil may be dropped into the ear and worked around. This can also be used as a first-aid measure where there is no pus. Afterward, you can use a small wad of cotton-wool for cleaning, and make sure that you do not wrap it around an orange-stick or other pointed object. You may obtain from your veterinary surgeon, ear-drops specially formulated for the condition present in your dog’s ears. Ingredients include wax softeners, antibiotics, local anesthetic, or parasiticides – according to need. Also like I said earlier, avoid the use of so-called ‘canker powders’ sold over shop counters, as some of these preparations may be ineffective, merely clogging the ears.
Scratched or Fly-bitten Ears
Cuts, scratches and fly-bites can injure the flap so that it becomes scabby and perhaps infected. A gentle soap-and-water cleansing will remove the crusts, after which a light dusting with antiseptic powder will soothe the irritation.
For fly-bitten ear tips, you might try bathing the flaps with the following:
Oil of cloves, 3 parts
Bay oil, 5 parts
Tincture of eucalyptus, 5 parts
Alcohol, 15 parts
Water, 200 parts.

Here, you will find out the best ear care you can give to your dog